STOP

Friday
1. Rohat Teahouse to meet the ladies for lunch. On the way, I realized a white road sign with black trim said, "Stop." My first two words deciphered in the beauty isle at the grocery store last week turned out to be shampoo and creme (aka lotion). Thank you, thank you very much. This month has been a fascinating reminder of how we process new language: time, silent period, immersion, connecting new information to existing knowledge, context, visual cues, authentic materials? Yes.
2. At the tea house I finally tried Osh, the national dish of Tajikistan. It's rice, carrots, chick peas, and meat. Nice and hearty. Met the illusive Gundina, Ella's friend, co-worker, and character extraordinaire.
3. Got my visa renewed at the airport. I will be legal my last three days.
4. Went out dancing with the ladies. I brought one pair of high heels and they didn't go to waste. We went to a Georgian restaurant, where there was a live singer and belly dancers. We ate and danced Tajik style (it's all in the arms). So much fun to watch Mimi, her friend, and Gundina let loose. Ella, too, when her favorite Tajik song came on. We were the only ones dancing and applauding the belly dancers and singer, and we were the only table of women. Gundina called the table of men behind us impotent for their tepid response to all of it. Maybe not tepid, but delayed. As we left, two followed us out and offered to give all five of us a ride. We refused, of course, and crossed the street to find a taxi. Our delayed responders swung around and made another attempt, but Gundina, the ex-police officer, wilted them with a glare. We rode home in a Chinese minivan embellished with purple interior lights.

Saturday
1. Woke up early to work on my final report.
2. Got a phone call from Ella around 9am that Mimi had planned a day for us, and she'd pick us up in 45 minutes. We'd go to an ancient fortress outside of Dushanbe (Yes! Outside the city!) and then back to Varzob for BBQ and lounging on platforms (topchan) near the river. Outside of the city, my ealier impression was confirmed. It looks a lot like Central Utah. The whole area is located in a large, dusty valley that's farmed and surrounded by tall dry mountains. Poplar trees give a little shade. Mimi spent part of our drive time giving me advice about men, which started because our car and driver were lent to us by her ex-husband. In short, and I quote directly, her message was, "A man will feel like a treasure if he spends money on you." The way she explained it, I can kind of see her point. While at the fortress, several wedding caravans passed by. The poor bride gets paraded around town accompanied by family, friends, drums, flutes and her new husband, while she bows continuously in humility. Mimi could give her a piece of advice or two.
3. Back to Dushanbe for a little rest. Then on to Dee's for Ella's homemade pizza and one last dinner with the INL crew. They're all sure I'm coming back.